The capita of Sikkim, Gangtok (which means 'hilltop'), occupies the west side of a long ridge flanking the Ranipul River. The scenery is spectacular and there are excellent views of the entire Kanchenjunga Range from many points in the environs of the city. This picturesque mountain clinging town surrounded by Tibet, Bhutan, West Bengal and Nepal is spoted with monasteries, parks, pagoda style houses and colorful bazaars.

Uou'll need at least four people in your trekking party to do the Dzongri trek. Operators in Gangtok charge between US$35 and US$60 per person per day, and also offer gompa tours, bird-watching tours, and white-water rafting.

Surrounding the insitute, and itself enclosed by a peacful forest, is the Orchid Sanctuary, where you can see many of the 454 species of orchid found in Sikkim.

The beautiful Royal Chapel is the Buddhists' principal place of worship and assembly, and the repository of large collection of scriptures.

A good time to visit is around 8 am, when the deer are fed.

Enchey Monastery is well worth a visit, particularly if you're in Gangtok when religious dances are performed in January (18^th and 19^th days of 12^th lunar month.

Phodang was themost important of Sikkim's three Kagyu-pa gompas (the third is Ralang Gompa). Here you can feel the timelessness of a part of Sikkim which tourists rarely visit.

Phodang is fairly recent structure, although the original gompa here was founded, like Rumtek, in 1740. The gompa has a community of about 60 monks, many of them born in India after the Chinese occupation of Tibet. They're very friendly and are happy to show you around.

The Yumthang Valley lies 140km north of Gangtok, at an elevation of 3564m. This region has recently been opened to foreignners, but trekking is still prohibited. The best time to visit is in April and May, when the rhododendrons are in full bloom. There are hot springs, covered by a wooden shelter. To ger here, you'll need to join a tour, and local travel agencies can arrange the requisite permits.

An important transport hub and administrative centre, Jorethang lies on the east side of the Rangeet River, only 30km north of Darjeeling, and flanked by its twin city, Naya Bazaar.

This place is popular objective for trekkers. The sacred lake lies in a depression surrounded by prayer flags and forested hills. Resist the temptation to swim, as it's a holy place. If you feel like a dip, you can swim in the river downhill from Pelling en route to the lake.

The friendly little town of Tashiling is becoming popular with trekkers. Technically you should have your permit endorsed in Gangtok to come here but there's currently no checkpoint.

Yuksom (also spelt Yoksum and Yuksam), 35km by road from Pemayangtse, is the furthest north you can get by road in Western Sikkim, and the trailhead for those intending to trek to Dzongri; the most popular trek in Sikkim.